The Slick Sleeky Disguise: Powerloom In Handloom Clothing

The threat of a "powerloom overhaul" looms over these traditional artisans —  whose precision of gaze and deftness of hand triumph over any mechanised alternatives.

The times have changed, rue Kerala's traditional handloom weavers, as they stare at a bleak future.

According to the India Brand Equity Foundation (IBEF), the handloom industry is also the country's largest cottage industry, providing direct and indirect employment to about 3.52 million people, many of whom are women.

These artisans have made a mark for themselves with handloom products, including silk items, carpets, and bed covers, among others, which are widely sought after in export markets.

With challenges rising, the exports of handloom products, which were estimated at US$315.6 million in 2020, fell to US$138.5 million in 2024.

Chendamangalam Kaithari

However, at Chendamangalam, a languid, tucked-away town flanked by the Periyar and synagogues, the machineries failed to make a mark — not so far, at least.

The powerloom is yet to gain ground in Chendamangalam.

The artisans here are not per se reluctant to make the transition to powerlooms — rather, their priority lies in preserving the essence of the craft of kaithari (or handloom), which, essentially, is handweaving, reflects Saritha C.S., Secretary, Kuriappilly Handloom Weavers' Co-Operative Society.

The Deception Point

Behind the curtains, however, an often-overlooked counterfeit reality has been unfolding:

The sale of powerloom products under the guise of handloom.

This also reduces the cost of the product.

As Saritha points out, shops and stalls selling powerloom products under the banner of "Chendamangalam handlooms" have been cropping up in various regions of Kerala. This is a cause for concern. Customers have been misled into products they didn’t sign up for, she says, underscoring the significance of awareness.

At a handloom stall put up as part of the recently held India International Trade Fair (IITF) 2025 in New Delhi, when one of the customers enquired more about a sari product, the salesperson replied in a low tone, "Though we sell products under the handloom banner, it is a mix of both."

This has always been the case, say people from the handloom sector, who call for measures to ensure that powerloom products are marketed as powerloom itself, so that it becomes convenient for the customers, too, to choose from the many choices.

On the other hand, some customers prefer only powerloom products. "These are budget-friendly and worth the price. The quality is often good since they are made using machines. Most often, authentic handloom products exceed our budget," said a customer who attended the trade fair.      

In Kerala's Kuthampully, which is known for its rich handloom tradition, powerlooms have largely taken over the weaving landscape. Before liberalisation, there was a mandate that a set of handloom products was not to be made using powerlooms. Even now, some textile articles are exclusively reserved for handloom. But this mandate is often breached. Powerloom has evolved to an extent that it has a distinctive style of its own. Even then, we come across replica models in the market. The only way forward is through strict regulations, wherein the authorities curb the sale of powerloom products disguised as handloom

Ajithkumar Gothuruth, former Secretary, Chendamangalam-Karimbadam Handloom Weavers' Co-Operative Society

"In Chendamangalam, unlike other regions in Kerala, artisans still carry the weft through the warp and beat the threads to keep the tradition alive. Powerlooms may or may not come to Chendamangalam, but for the time being, the artisans here, most of whom are above 60, sustain the craft," Gothuruth further points out. However, he also stressed the need for artisans to adapt to machine-weaving techniques, too. "They also need to know how to sustain their craft through alternative methods. A balance has to be struck. What is required, at the moment, is a clear distinction between the products," he said. 

Time-Honoured Heritage

A study that analysed the impact of powerlooms on the sector noted that "accurate replicas of handloom goods" were being used to illegally enter the handloom market.

"Handloom is not just a sector — it is the embodiment of our heritage. Today, powerlooms have largely taken over production. Whoever made the transition — they survive," says a handloom artisan.  

According to Lakshmi Ahuja, member, Creative Dignity (a platform working towards the benefit of traditional artisans), manufacturers prefer powerlooms to handweaving techniques, as the former is time-efficient, labour-saving, and convenient. "Handlooms incur more production cost. A handloom product that costs about ₹1,300 would only cost about ₹350 if it were made using powerlooms. But, after all, it is the artistry that makes the difference," she says.  

According to others in the sector, powerloom products have been palmed off as handloom in the global market as well, taking a toll on the traditional artisans, whose efforts, as a result, fall through the cracks. The artisans call for acute awareness and strict policy regulations so that the buyers would not be misguided into buying powerloom alternatives passed off as handloom. 

Handloom Mark Certification

The Handloom Mark certification has been in vogue since the 2000s, but we see instances in which it has been misused to mislead gullible customers; therefore, we need stricter regulations, Gothuruth says.

As per a study undertaken on the challenges faced by Chendamangalam handloom weavers, "customers are unable to distinguish between the product produced by the handloom sector and those produced on power looms".

Industry voices posit a clear-cut distinction of products as the only way forward. "The powerloom workers also undertake strenuous labour. So, it is important that their productivity also stands out in the market, and not be saturated by misplaced labels," says an official.